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Recently, the French Culture Center in Beijing held an exhibition entitled Mysterious Ancient Watchtowers from the Himalaya. It featured photographs of the stone watchtowers as well as of the Tibetan and Qiang ethnic minorities in the area. All of the photos were taken by a French woman named Frederique Darragon over the span of more than seven years. They illustrate not only the simplicity and mysteriousness of the ancient structures, but also bring attention to the public of the need to preserve these relics. So let’s find out more about this French photographer and her unique affinity for China’s ancient watchtowers. Here’s our reporter Shanshan.
Frederique. Darragon has always been fascinated by China. She fell in love with the country and its culture when she was first introduced to China through books she read as a child. From then on, she developed a curiosity that would never be satisfied. The richness and complexity of Chinese culture was overwhelming but she was determined to explore it according to her own interests. She eventually came to China to discover for herself what this country was all about.
The Qinghai-Tibet Plateau is located in west China, where ancient watchtowers are scattered throughout the mountain ranges. They are made of stone; their shapes vary from structures with four, five, ten and even twelve sides. Usually 20 to 50 meters high, they were used by the locals to keep look out for invaders and also as storage for grain and firewood. For hundreds of years, local residents have been living alongside these ancient grey structures, but they seem to know little about its history and origin.
In 1996, Frederique Darragon was traveling through the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau region while doing research on the Tibetan antelopes. One day, she found herself stuck in a heavy rainstorm. Looking around her, she saw a structure as tall as a skyscraper in the midst of a nearby mountain slope. This was one of the many ancient watchtowers in the area. She was immediately captivated by this grand structure and almost forgot about the rain. In the following days, Frederique went on a hunt and discovered many watchtowers in the border area between Tibet and Sichuan Province. She left China soon after that, but returned two years later. This time she devoted her energy completely to the exploration of the watchtowers, an undertaking which has lasted to the present.
Frederique Darragon can’t seem to resist her enthusiasm on this subject.
“The watchtowers are a rare sight but it has not been researched by UNESCO. I wish to show its beauty and wonder to the public using my own skills as a photographer. I believe this is a cause that needs much support from the public. I want to not only explore these historical remains, but also give people a better understanding of them.”
From 1998 until the present, Ms. Darragon spent most of her time and energy working in Tibet and Sichuan, exploring almost every watchtower in between. Moreover, she searched through libraries in France and other countries to learn more about watchtowers. She documented more than 150 watchtowers using various means including written logs and video cameras.
Meanwhile, she collected samples of wood from nearly 50 watchtowers, homes and temples, and sent them to laboratories in the United States. Tests showed that the age of these ancient structures range from 900 to 1500 years old. She found out that these watchtowers were mainly constructed to be used as a defense mechanism. But the ones built in villages, fertile plain or trade routes, they were used as storage space for various goods. After much research on the ancient watchtowers and discussion with various experts, Ms. Darragon has herself become a specialist in this regard. Her commitment to this work has won the respect and recognition of many Chinese archaeologists.
Frederique Darragon also found that with the changing times and lifestyles, the watchtower’s function as a structure for defense and storage have gradually been reduced. Meanwhile, over the span of hundreds of years, many of these ancient buildings are now in ruins. Due to the terrible conditions of the watchtowers, Ms. Darragon began a campaign to drum up support for the protection of these structures. She believes these ancient “skyscrapers” belong to the people, and the best way to preserve them for the future is to introduce them to the rest of the world. In 2004, Frederique Darragon established a research and heritage protection institute together with Sichuan University. In addition, she held exhibitions featuring the watchtowers in the United Nation’s General Headquarters and also in major cities around China. The Discovery Channel also broadcasted a documentary she made on the topic. Proceeds of around 300,000 US dollars from the film went to the watchtower protection project.
Ms. Darragon’s effort won the support from various circles. Here is Aurelie Arff, the Culture Official of French Embassy to China.
“I am amazed by all her work, it’s very interesting. She has focused on an aspect of China that I’ve never known about before. It is such a marvelous thing. Her research also helps to bring attention to the area and now more and more people travel there just to have a look at its natural wonders.”
Marc d’Antras is a consultant with the China Heritage Society based in France.
“What she’s doing now is not simply architectural research. She also focuses on the local folk customs. Generally speaking, she wants to promote the local culture.”
Indeed, in areas where the ancient watchtowers could be found, there mainly dwell two ethnic minorities – the Tibetans and Qiangs. Having lived with them for a long time, Frederique Darragon has established a deep friendship with the locals. Here is Ms. Darragon.
“I often live together with the locals. They are warm and hospitable, simple and innocent. For years, they had thought these watchtowers useless. Now when they find out about the exhibitions I gave in the United Nations and realize what a miracle these ancient buildings are, I could definitely feel the delight and happiness in their hearts. Now I am not only a guest but also a friend to them.”
Frederique Darragon’s biggest wish now is that one day China’s ancient watchtowers will have its due spot on the World Heritage List. What’s more, she hopes that people who live around the ancient watchtowers could better preserve the old structures. Thanks to her efforts, the World Cultural Heritage Fund has included China’s ancient watchtowers in its List of World Heritages in Danger and started raising funds for their protection.
Speaking of her future plan, Ms. Darragon says although the photo exhibition wraps up all her work of the past seven years, it doesn’t mean she is ready to stop. She wants to continue to bring this exhibition to people around the world. Meanwhile, she also wants to help the impoverished areas around the watchtowers and raise more money to protect these ancient buildings. Her appreciation and fascination for China’s ancient watchtowers is likely to last a life time. |